Wednesday, September 3, 2008

A Greek in Montreal

A couple of my guidebooks recommended the excellent Greek food in Montreal.  But they didn't mention a moderately priced Greek restaurant.

So, I asked my Greek Bellboy.  He told me about Mythos, on Avenue Parc, near McGill University.  

Mythos did not disappoint.  It's in a big old house, where it's been for the last 50 years.  The waiters are all middle-aged or old men who have been there for years.

I ate outside on the sidewalk, and ordered the squid stuffed with cheese and capers.  It was served with rice and vegetables.  That's the photo below.  What I didn't get a photo of was the wonderful Horiatiki salad of wonderfully fresh tomatoes (the kind you can only get on the East Coast), cucumber, olives and fresh feta cheese.    

Dinner was wonderful.  I had a Greek custard with honey for dessert.  I forget the name.  But it was also outstanding.   And the bill came to $33.00 with coffee and tax.  



Musee des Beaux Arts

Today, I was able to spend about 4 hours at Montreal's Musee de Beaux Arts, the fine arts museum in the city.

I have posted previously about my love of impressionism. Imagine my surprise when the first painting in the first room I see is one of Monet's paintings at his garden at Giverney! Unfortunately, you're not allowed to take photos of the paintings, and the photos on-line aren't download-able. So, you'll just have to take my word for it. The colors popped. It was lovely.

Then I see an entire room of paintings by Monet, Degas, Renoir and another room full of Picasso paintings. The famous "The Embrace" is at the Musee de Beaux Arts.

On the floor below is the contemporary art wing, with modern paintings from 1945 and later.

I squealed with joy when I saw two paintings by Jean Michel Basquiat. I urge you to rent the movie "Basquiat. It tells the story of this painter's troubled life, but the best part of it is David Bowie's BRILLIANT portrayal of Andy Warhol. Warhol turned Basquiat into his protegee'.

The painting below is a classic example of his work:

I know, if you've never seen his work before, you're probably wondering what the heck is THIS?
(and if you paid attention at the beginning of this post, you're wondering how I got a photo....I took it when the guard was out of the room!)

This is the first one I've ever seen in person. It did not disappoint. It's pure perspective. This guy, who died of a drug overdose wasn't trying to impress anyone. He just had ideas he wanted to share. Love it, hate it or accept it as it is.

The featured exhibit at the Musee des Beaux Arts right now is an Yves St. Laurent retrospective. Yes, the late fashion designer who defined the house of Dior.

I'm a big "Project Runway" fan, and used to read Vogue Magazine at my grandmother's house. But I'm no fashion hound. But wow.

Here's the coolest thing about this exhibit. It was PACKED with wannabe fashionistas. Almost every woman there was dressed to the 9's. Incredible fashion to see the exhibit about fashion. I doubt many of them ever stepped foot in the museum before, and this had them rivited.

I have to admit that the clothing was spectacular. And even with my limited knowledge of fashion, I could understand why the creative artistry of this man led to influences in fashion for many years to come. I even was able to draw a connection between his 1976 Russian-influenced collection, and a cocktail dress I bought in 1984.

Think about that next time I'm wearing yet ANOTHER pair of black pants and a turtleneck.


Aux Anciens Canadiens

If you ever get to Quebec, make sure you have lunch or dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant.

After I ate here, I found out it's recommended in many guide books, including Frommers.  

The restaurant is in the oldest house in Quebec City.  It was built in 1677.  Wow.  almost 100 years before the Declaration of Independence was signed, several generations had called this place home.

But enough about the location.  Let's get to the food!


The interior is very charming.  Unfortunately, I was so hungry that I forgot to take photos of the low ceilings, tiny leaded glass windows and relief carvings of Canadian history on the walls. 

Instead, I focused on the charming place setting.

If you go, order the salmon with shrimp wrapped in puff pastry.  OH MY GOD!  The burre blanc sauce with white wine and (ugh) carrots was so good that I sopped most of it up with the bread after I had finished the salmon. 

I also had a corn chowder but it didn't look very inspiring so I didn't take a photo of it.  But trust me, it was wonderful.

And for dessert:

FABULOUS!   They call this "sugar pie" with cream.  It's maple syrup in a pie.  I heard somebody at a table next to me describe it as "pecan pie without all those pesky nuts".  That's pretty close.

Pennsylvania Dutch friends will recognize the flavor as Shoo-Fly pie without the crunchy layer.  
At any rate, it was delicious and I was so full that I didn't eat for the rest of the day.




Montmorency Falls

We took a side trip to Montmorency Falls, just outside of Quebec City.  It's kind of hard to tell how big they are by the photo, but at 275 feet, they are almost 100 feet taller than Niagra Falls.

The waters flow from the Montmorency River into the St. Lawrence.  Another set of falls, the Bridal Veil falls are a short distance away.

We got 10 whole minutes to take in this beauty.  There's a cable car that runs to a resort at the top of the falls.  There are also at least 2 walkways from the top of the mountain to the bottom of the falls.  

I understand it's simply spectacular in the winter, when the falls and the river are frozen.  

But I don't feel cheated.  I thought the falls were lovely.